Mon rencontre avec la fée verte
They say every man has his poison right? Workaholics and aspiring scientists have their coffee, Brits and South Asians have their tea, Japanese have their sake, Germans and Czechs have their beer, Russians and Poles have their vodka and those down near the Mediterranean have their wine.
Yet for a few others, bohemians like Hemingway and van Gogh, Oscar Wilde and Charles Baudelaire, absinthe (often stylistically referred to as la fèe verte or "The Green Fairy") has long served as both muse and poison (like literally in the case of van Gogh).
Made from three main ingredients, namely fennel, anise (which impart the licorice flavor) and wormwood (the active ingredient that supposedly causes the hallucinogenic effects), it's modern resurgence during the 1990's saw the rise in popularity of the spirit - most of which comes from the Czech republic where thujone (the chemical in wormwood) is legal and is not regulated. As such, no trip to the Czech republic will be complete without experiencing this wonder.
Who am I to decline a rencontre with la fée verte?
Yet for a few others, bohemians like Hemingway and van Gogh, Oscar Wilde and Charles Baudelaire, absinthe (often stylistically referred to as la fèe verte or "The Green Fairy") has long served as both muse and poison (like literally in the case of van Gogh).
Made from three main ingredients, namely fennel, anise (which impart the licorice flavor) and wormwood (the active ingredient that supposedly causes the hallucinogenic effects), it's modern resurgence during the 1990's saw the rise in popularity of the spirit - most of which comes from the Czech republic where thujone (the chemical in wormwood) is legal and is not regulated. As such, no trip to the Czech republic will be complete without experiencing this wonder.
Who am I to decline a rencontre with la fée verte?
Technically a spirit and not a liquor since it is bottled without sugar, absinthe has been worshiped by artists as a source of inspiration (it has hallucinogenic and sometime euphoric effects) and vilified and eyed with caution by conservatives and prohibitionists in 19th up to 20th century France. The year 1915 saw its banning in the United States as well as in most of Europe, including France - something that was lifted only much later in the 1990's with the spirit's revival. While the spirit (in particular the chemical thujone) was associated criminal behavior and social disorder, in reality, these were probably caused by the high alcohol content rather than the wormwood component -- so absinthe is really no more dangerous than any other liquor or spirit.
The Czech republic played an important role in the resurgence of popularity of this spirit - most absinthe with high-alcohol content (up to 70% alcohol by volume) come from the Czech republic (where the active ingredient thujone is not regulated, whereas it is still illegal in the US) and the Czechs are credited with the invention of the "traditional" ceremony of lighting a sugar cube in flame and melting it into the drink. The so-called Bohemian-style absinthe has only the wormwood component and the high-alcohol content in common with the French/Swiss original (it misses the combination of herbs) and tastes bitter, hence, the addition of sugar is necessary (though not all absinthe manufactured in the Czech republic are Bohemian-style).
That being said, historians would admit that there's probably more farce than reality in the supposed Czech tradition of drinking absinthe and was probably created more as a ploy to attract and entice visitors. As such, drinking absinthe could and would mark one as a tourist. (Aside: Last time I checked, Czechs don't really have Asian eyes so I don't exactly fit in anyway! No loss!)
Still, I already missed the chance to drink absinthe in one of those classic Parisian bars when I was in France so there was no way I was gonna skip this one!
The Czech republic played an important role in the resurgence of popularity of this spirit - most absinthe with high-alcohol content (up to 70% alcohol by volume) come from the Czech republic (where the active ingredient thujone is not regulated, whereas it is still illegal in the US) and the Czechs are credited with the invention of the "traditional" ceremony of lighting a sugar cube in flame and melting it into the drink. The so-called Bohemian-style absinthe has only the wormwood component and the high-alcohol content in common with the French/Swiss original (it misses the combination of herbs) and tastes bitter, hence, the addition of sugar is necessary (though not all absinthe manufactured in the Czech republic are Bohemian-style).
That being said, historians would admit that there's probably more farce than reality in the supposed Czech tradition of drinking absinthe and was probably created more as a ploy to attract and entice visitors. As such, drinking absinthe could and would mark one as a tourist. (Aside: Last time I checked, Czechs don't really have Asian eyes so I don't exactly fit in anyway! No loss!)
Still, I already missed the chance to drink absinthe in one of those classic Parisian bars when I was in France so there was no way I was gonna skip this one!
My place of choice was Absinthe Time located at Křemencova at Nove Mesto (New Town), only a few meters from my hostel - it was the first absinthe place I saw while walking around and, while I could always look for somewhere else, it was close to my hostel making going home easy (in case I get really drunk or something). The only other people in shop, when I entered, were this group of young italians (after I got settled in, a couple entered). I realized that not a lot of people really want to go to a specialty bar to drink absinthe - others would much rather go in bars or pubs or beer gardens or just go drinking on the streets. However, as I would learn, going to specialty places like this has its benefits.
A female bartender approached me with a menu and asked if I had absinthe before already. I told her that I tried it previously but only as part of cocktails (I remember having an absinthe martini and another absinthe cocktail when I was in Florence a few years back). She proceeded with a short introduction about the spirit - highlighting some of the possible effects (like euphoria) and possible risks (no one really dies from drinking absinthe though). I asked her how much she could drink and she said she could drink 8 (she'll be shit-housed drunk afterwards) and while I was in no way aspiring to reach this number (both for money and for personal safety/security), I shed all doubts about proceeding -- other than the high alcohol content that it's famous for, there really is nothing else to absinthe. I was wrong.
She talked to me about the two ways of preparing the drink - the Czech method, which involves dipping a sugar cube in the spirit and flaming it up (some of the alcohol is allowed to burn to make it less intense and the caramelization of the sugar adds a nice taste to the spirit) and the French method (which I was more familiar with), which involves dissolving the sugar cube with a bit of water and the resulting spirit-water mixture having a murky appearance (since an emulsion is formed). Since I said I didn't really like strong licorice flavors, she recommended that I go with the Czech method and suggested that I start with No. 14 in their list (Absinthe 35).
She came up a couple of minutes later with the shot (slightly more than a regular shot, I think), a slotted spoon, two sugar cubes and a lighter. She then dipped the sugar cube into the spirit, lit it up and let it burn on the spoon, occasionally dipping it back in the liquid to absorb more alcohol. Once she was satisfied, she told me to let the liquid cool, drink it straight up in one go and bite into the second sugar cube. After she left, I waited for a couple of minutes and took the shot... it was so intense that I had tears in my eyes and felt like my throat was burning -- we usually say gumuguhit sa lalamunan (draws a line in the throat, in Filipino) when describing "normal shots" (like vodka or tequila) but this was for sure beyond "drawing a line" and more like swallowing a hundred pencils. The sugar helped but not so much and I nearly spat out the liquid (read: The Green Fairy turned me into a fire-breathing dragon!) but I tried to take it like the man am (and not the wimp I must have looked like, to expert drinkers).
Over-all, I realized that drinking absinthe the Czech way really does allow you to by-pass the licorice flavor that doesn't go well with everyone as there was barely any licorice flavor left in my mouth after the shot and it does give you the full-on intensity of the spirit (I imagine friends doing this together and "breathing fire" at one another like Targaryen dragons). I decided to wait a bit while contemplating on whether I'll take another one or not - I ended up going for another but insisted on doing the French route (licorice or not, there was no way I was gonna try to breathe fire again). She recommended that I go with No. 22 - Absinthe Grenouille since she said it was the only absinthe she could drink French-style without a really overwhelming licorice taste. I decided to follow her suggestion.
She came up with the shot, another cube of sugar and a water stand with a small spout and proceeded setting up with the sugar on the slotted spoon on top of the drink and below the spout. The water is dropped bit by bit into the spirit and after enough water has gone to the drink, stopped and let me enjoy it. The spirit, which is naturally green, turns into a greenish milky liquid as the water emulsifies with the spirit (nerd fact: this is also known as the Ouzo effect, since the same effect is seen in Ouzo, another anise-flavored liquor from Greece).
The second one, which was more like a cocktail due to the addition of water, came down easier and was much more pleasant. This is probably la fée verte that the bohemians have been fawning about. The licorice taste was there but not overpowering, as promised, and I could just imagine writers drinking it while writing their greatest works. After finishing the drink, I paid up and walked a bit before going back to my hostel since it was a pleasant evening after all and it was only a bit before midnight. I wasn't swaying left and right and I could still move in a straight line (I figured) - unlike in my first rencontre with the Green Fairy but I did enjoy the drinks and the bit of culture that went with it.
While absinthe bars are sprouting in other parts of the city (making Absinthe Time not the only bar specializing in the spirit), I learned that the "tradition" of the Czech method is slowly dying and one could probably order absinthe in any club or pub where the bartender will give you a lighter or light up your drink, maybe some sugar and a normal spoon, that's it. Not that there's a great deal of history lost (see the introduction above) but I would have been nice to see those fun and unique quirkiness to come preserved. Deespite this, probably due the mystique that is still surrounding this spirit, for those who haven't tried it... Absinthe will always be something interesting.
As for me, I have already been demystified. I have gotten to know The Green Fairy.
A female bartender approached me with a menu and asked if I had absinthe before already. I told her that I tried it previously but only as part of cocktails (I remember having an absinthe martini and another absinthe cocktail when I was in Florence a few years back). She proceeded with a short introduction about the spirit - highlighting some of the possible effects (like euphoria) and possible risks (no one really dies from drinking absinthe though). I asked her how much she could drink and she said she could drink 8 (she'll be shit-housed drunk afterwards) and while I was in no way aspiring to reach this number (both for money and for personal safety/security), I shed all doubts about proceeding -- other than the high alcohol content that it's famous for, there really is nothing else to absinthe. I was wrong.
She talked to me about the two ways of preparing the drink - the Czech method, which involves dipping a sugar cube in the spirit and flaming it up (some of the alcohol is allowed to burn to make it less intense and the caramelization of the sugar adds a nice taste to the spirit) and the French method (which I was more familiar with), which involves dissolving the sugar cube with a bit of water and the resulting spirit-water mixture having a murky appearance (since an emulsion is formed). Since I said I didn't really like strong licorice flavors, she recommended that I go with the Czech method and suggested that I start with No. 14 in their list (Absinthe 35).
She came up a couple of minutes later with the shot (slightly more than a regular shot, I think), a slotted spoon, two sugar cubes and a lighter. She then dipped the sugar cube into the spirit, lit it up and let it burn on the spoon, occasionally dipping it back in the liquid to absorb more alcohol. Once she was satisfied, she told me to let the liquid cool, drink it straight up in one go and bite into the second sugar cube. After she left, I waited for a couple of minutes and took the shot... it was so intense that I had tears in my eyes and felt like my throat was burning -- we usually say gumuguhit sa lalamunan (draws a line in the throat, in Filipino) when describing "normal shots" (like vodka or tequila) but this was for sure beyond "drawing a line" and more like swallowing a hundred pencils. The sugar helped but not so much and I nearly spat out the liquid (read: The Green Fairy turned me into a fire-breathing dragon!) but I tried to take it like the man am (and not the wimp I must have looked like, to expert drinkers).
Over-all, I realized that drinking absinthe the Czech way really does allow you to by-pass the licorice flavor that doesn't go well with everyone as there was barely any licorice flavor left in my mouth after the shot and it does give you the full-on intensity of the spirit (I imagine friends doing this together and "breathing fire" at one another like Targaryen dragons). I decided to wait a bit while contemplating on whether I'll take another one or not - I ended up going for another but insisted on doing the French route (licorice or not, there was no way I was gonna try to breathe fire again). She recommended that I go with No. 22 - Absinthe Grenouille since she said it was the only absinthe she could drink French-style without a really overwhelming licorice taste. I decided to follow her suggestion.
She came up with the shot, another cube of sugar and a water stand with a small spout and proceeded setting up with the sugar on the slotted spoon on top of the drink and below the spout. The water is dropped bit by bit into the spirit and after enough water has gone to the drink, stopped and let me enjoy it. The spirit, which is naturally green, turns into a greenish milky liquid as the water emulsifies with the spirit (nerd fact: this is also known as the Ouzo effect, since the same effect is seen in Ouzo, another anise-flavored liquor from Greece).
The second one, which was more like a cocktail due to the addition of water, came down easier and was much more pleasant. This is probably la fée verte that the bohemians have been fawning about. The licorice taste was there but not overpowering, as promised, and I could just imagine writers drinking it while writing their greatest works. After finishing the drink, I paid up and walked a bit before going back to my hostel since it was a pleasant evening after all and it was only a bit before midnight. I wasn't swaying left and right and I could still move in a straight line (I figured) - unlike in my first rencontre with the Green Fairy but I did enjoy the drinks and the bit of culture that went with it.
While absinthe bars are sprouting in other parts of the city (making Absinthe Time not the only bar specializing in the spirit), I learned that the "tradition" of the Czech method is slowly dying and one could probably order absinthe in any club or pub where the bartender will give you a lighter or light up your drink, maybe some sugar and a normal spoon, that's it. Not that there's a great deal of history lost (see the introduction above) but I would have been nice to see those fun and unique quirkiness to come preserved. Deespite this, probably due the mystique that is still surrounding this spirit, for those who haven't tried it... Absinthe will always be something interesting.
As for me, I have already been demystified. I have gotten to know The Green Fairy.
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