Trip to Greece? Nah, just south of Naples!
Up until the Pyrrhic War, which lead to their absorption into the Roman Republic, Magna Grecia (lit. "Greater Greece") was a series of powerful Greek settlements and cities in southern Italy and Paestum (Poseidonia during this ancient Greek times) was one of them.
Located 3 hours south of Naples via a regional train that continues down the Costa Cilentana, it was a satisfying daytrip that I took one ordinary week-end last June. Needless to say, I was overwhelmed - the sight was amazing and, for a while, I thought I was in Greece.
Going to Paestum is like going to Greece... without leaving Italy!
Located 3 hours south of Naples via a regional train that continues down the Costa Cilentana, it was a satisfying daytrip that I took one ordinary week-end last June. Needless to say, I was overwhelmed - the sight was amazing and, for a while, I thought I was in Greece.
Going to Paestum is like going to Greece... without leaving Italy!
| I've lived in southern Italy for more than 2 years now and while I know that I haven't seen every tourist sight there is to see (though I've been to the important ones), the fact that I have never gone further south than the touristy Amalfi coast has always bothered me. The province of Salerno and what lies beyond has always been a mystery. I do know that there are at least two reasons to go there: the remote and untouched Costa Cilentana and the archaeological site of Paestum. Having been aestivating for most of the week-ends of June, I decided to venture south, go to Paestum and see what's out there. The train ride was long though convenient. One arrives at the small station of Paestum (which is somewhat easy to miss so pay attention once you reach Battipaglia) from which one must walk about 500m to reach the archaeological site. You'll know when you reach it as you'll see a large open area with touristic shops on the side. The site itself is large and, depending on how fast or how slow you go, could take from 1-3 hours to explore (I really took time since I got an audioguide and I take lots of photos). The main points to visit (as you can see in the photos) are obviously the Greek temples built with Doric columns and some features from different styles but it is also interesting to note some of the other ruins such as the amphitheater, the remains of the Roman forum, the old Greek agora and the ruins of a house with an intact marble impluvium. After visiting the site, one must not miss the archaeological museum (which is free with the site ticket) and showcases a lot of excavated stuff from the ruins of the city. Lots and lots of Grecian urns (I've never seen so many Grecian urns in my life!), painted tombs (including depictions of some sensual and possibly homoerotic scenes) and other artifacts. | A Cheese Quest: Beyond the archaeology, another reason to visit Paestum would be to try the various formaggi (cheeses) made from la bufala (the buffalo) close to the source - the most famous of which is mozzarella di bufala (which elevates the already good pizza Margherita into something truly divine). In the antipasto plate that I got, I got to try not only the mozzarella but also some latticini, what I think is caciocavallo, a cured and spiced ricotta, a provola and one that I can't identify. The various textures and degrees of creaminess were interesting but I really gravitated towards the cured and spiced ricotta and the latticini - both formaggi fresci and just real creamy goodness that showcase the great qualities of the buffalo milk. Had I had the time, I could have also tried to visit the cheese factory where all the stuff are made (very close to the archaeological site). Oh well... maybe next time? |
For a more detailed discussion on the history and interpretations on these temples, check out this video of Dr. Beth Harris and Dr. Steven Zucker by the Khan Academy.
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